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Au Sable helps heal with reels
David Miller, a 58-year-old cancer survivor from the Detroit area, picks up trout tips on the Au Sable River from his Reel Recovery retreat " fishing buddy," Bob Gullo of Detroit. The retreat participants were partnered with experienced fly-fishermen while in the water.
A river rising
DOUGLAS CITY, TRINITY COUNTY -- For the Trinity River to rise, Donald Tullis will have to move.
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...Continued
from top
... The terrain was too rugged even for these mountain men."
Exploration of the Trinity is much easier today. Even so, it is a journey into a place whose wildness will energize you and linger in your mind.
The river canyon by car
Car travelers can reach Trinity country easily by following alongside the river canyon on State 299, the 130-mile-long Trinity Scenic Byway, which winds from Redding to Arcata along the southern border of the Trinity Alps, through Shasta-Trinity and Six Rivers National Forests. The historic mining and logging town of Weaverville makes a good base. From here, you head west on the prettiest part of State 299, the 50-mile stretch west of Weaverville that winds through the river canyon; you'll enter terrain still primitive enough to shelter river otters and golden eagles. On the way you'll find pullouts where you can hike, fish, or access campsites. Anglers can find brown trout here, but the Trinity is best known for king salmon and steelhead; king salmon runs peak from May through October.
Still, nice as the drive is, if you want to really plunge into the Trinity region, you need to go on the river itself, by joining one of the half- or full-day rafting trips that run from now into October.
We took a trip with Bigfoot Rafting, based in Big Flat, about 20 miles west of Weaverville, and run by Marc Rowley, his son, Kyle, and his father, Max. "My family has lived in Trinity country for five generations, and we know this river," says Max, a fit 74-year-old.
On a cool summer's day passengers are helping one of Bigfoot's guides muscle a yellow raft into the water. Bank swallows dart overhead, and the piercing kree of an osprey echoes in the distance. Then, a sweeter call. "That's a western tanager," notes Max, a former forester and avid outdoorsman. "Hear him singing?"
Way down the river, experienced boaters can find class V rapids, but this morning's trip is rated class II (moderate rapids) and is reminiscent of rafting the South Fork American River--minus most of that river's traffic. Floating around a bend, our rafts startle a herd of western pond turtles, who slide off their log in successive plunks. "This is still the same wild, beautiful river I knew as a boy," Max says. "Except with less water, because of the dam diversions." As boatman Kyle maneuvers carefully through a field of boulders, the senior Rowley tells of the river's history and the current issues confronting it.
"I remember when the river was smaller and the water warmed up to 70[degrees] and there was algae," he says. He's talking about the years after the big dams--Trinity and Lewiston--were built, and the Trinity was cut to 10 percent of its natural flow. But today, water flows have been increased to aid the salmon fishery, and the river is now at 25 percent of its natural flow at Lewiston Dam. So there's fine rafting all summer and, in the Trinity below Lewiston Lake, good fishing.
"But it still needs more water," Max contends. Federal officials hope to boost flows to further aid fisheries, but action is snagged in the courts.
From our raft, all we see is water and trees. We float on, behind a family of common mergansers (diving ducks) and into heart-pumping rapids and peaceful pools. The forest--reddish ponderosa pine, Douglas fir, live oak--enfolds the river, crowding right down to the water's edge.
As it cuts through the lean, wrinkled ridges of the Coast Range, the river turns malachite green. By journey's end, misty clouds are clinging to the ridgetops. As we pack up the raft, Marc meets us to add his reflections. "We're now seeing some wildlife we never saw before--ring-tailed cats, green herons, beaver. And we've seen a kind of a rebirth of the river as the rafting has grown. But there are other things we don't see--like zillions of salmon--that we can only hope for."
But the Trinity has a way of fulfilling hopes. Who would have thought so wild a river could still exist in California? And yet here it flows, reborn, revitalized--as you may be, should you decide to explore it.
RELATED ARTICLE: Trinity basics
June mornings and evenings are crisp, with midday temperatures in the 80s. Pick up a free brochure with a map to the Trinity Scenic Byway/State 299 at any . Forest Service office. For more information, contact the Shasta Cascade Wonderland Association (800/474-2782 or .com) or the Trinity County Chamber of Commerce (800/421-7259, 530/623-6101,or .com).
Trinity travel planner
Attractions
Weaverville. This is one of the West's most charming gold towns. Wander Main Street, with its balconied storefronts, and stop in at the 150-year-old Weaverville Drug Store (530/623-4343), said to be California's oldest pharmacy. Tune in to Gold Rush and logging history at the . Jackson Memorial Museum (530/623-5211) and the Chinese temple at Joss House State Historic Park (530/623-5284). Shasta-Trinity National Forest. There's picnicking, fishing, hiking, and camping. Weaverville Ranger Station, 210 Main St., Weaverville; (530) 623-2121.
Rafting
Rafting season runs March through October, peaking in July and August. A class II half-day guided trip runs about $50 per person. The three biggest outfitters on the river are Aurora River Adventures (800/562-8475), Bigfoot Rafting (800/722-2223 or .com), and Trinity River Rafting (800/307-4837 or .com).
Fishing
In Weaverville, buy licenses (ask for a salmon punch card) and tackle at shops like Longs Drugs or Ben Franklin. Outfitters offer guided drift boat, raft, and walk-in fishing trips for salmon, steelhead, and trout along the river and elsewhere. Try God's Country Fishing Guide Service (530/384-1790), the Trinity Fly Shop (530/623-6757 or .com), or Trinity River Guide Service (530/623-6088).
Dining
La Grange Cafe. In renovated brick buildings, the cafe serves surprisingly sophisticated pasta, game, and seafood. 226 Main, Weaverville; (530) 623-5325. Miller's Drive-In, If you've never experienced carhop service, stop here to savor the juicy cheeseburgers and thick malts. 900 Main, Weaverville; (530) 623-4585. Strawhouse. This charming riverside coffeehouse serves baked goods and roasts its own coffee. Sit at tables along the river and bird-watch. On State 299, Big Flat; (530) 623-1990.
Lodging
Best Western Weaverville Victorian Inn. With the most rooms in town, this neat and convenient motel is nice for families. From $71. 1709 Main, Weaverville; (530) 623-4432.
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