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Ace of Spades
EXMORE -- Bill Hall didn't like what he saw. "One, two, three, four ... looks like we have a crowd," Hall said, looking at the boats surrounding the small navigation tower. "This place is only good for a few boats."
DINING REVIEW: Crab Louie's
The server chirps, "What can I get you to drink?" before you've removed your coat. Heinous! The second bite of bruschetta hasn't touched your mouth when your steak arrives. Unspeakable! An awkward silence occurs as those with plates anxiously pick at their pilaf until your entrée appears. Immoral!
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Memorable moments: Fishing in Rocky Mountain National Park, where 2-year-old Charlie was sure he hooked several trout. Stopping for ice cream in Grand Lake and letting Bonnie, our Bernese mountain dog, cool off with a swim. Tubing down the Yampa River in Steamboat Springs, past bubbling hot sulfur springs. Hopping on bikes to ride into Breckenridge for dinner--and then hightailing it back to the motorhome when a summer thunderstorm struck.
Creature comforts: After an icy plunge in Turquoise Lake with TJ, 10-year-old Lucy and 8-year-old Henry were happy to jump into a hot shower in the camper, parked just steps from the lake.
Wide load: TJ was usually the designated driver, and he found it much easier than he thought. "I went from dreading back-in campsites to feeling like a pro in no time," he bragged. But we quickly learned that venturing up scenic dirt roads wasn't worth the upheaval in the cabinets. Our only mishap was pulling into a gas station and cutting the turn too tight, resulting in a 2-foot scrape on the RV.
Biggest relief: Dumping the sewage turned out to be a snap--no odor, no mess.
Setting up camp: Wilderness campgrounds in national parks and forests offered much more privacy and seclusion than commercial RV parks, many of which were really just glorified parking lots. Commercial parks did have the advantage of electrical and water hookups, not to mention gawking privileges at RV setups much more luxurious than ours. However, we could have "dry camped" (camped without hookups) using just the water tank and the generator; rental companies may charge an additional fee for increased generator use.
Plenty of storage: RV rental companies will outfit the camper with linens and cook ware for a fee, but we found it just as easy to bring our own gear, including a coffeemaker, a can opener, and charcoal for barbecues. We stowed fishing rods and camp chairs below the chassis and carried bikes on a rack. Although not really ecologically correct, paper plates and plastic cups make for less rattling around in the cabinets and quicker cleanup (and less water use) after meals.
Best memory: The boys pulling out their mitts for an impromptu game of catch with players from the Little League World Series playoffs, who happened to be staying at our RV campground in Steamboat Springs. Watching the Little League games the next day and collecting players' autographs. With an ear-to-ear grin across his freckled face, 6-year-old Jack begged, "Can we do this again next year?"
BY JANE McCONNELL
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANNE KRAUSE
The basics
OUTFIT: The 31-foot Type C Winnebago Minnie we used was roomy enough for our family of six and our dog, with a bedroom in the back and a dining table and couch that folded out into additional beds. Rental sizes range from 22 to 40 feet and sleep four to eight.
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COST: RV rental prices vary by size but start at around $200 a night in summer ($150 or less per night the rest of the year), including limited mileage. Plan on getting just 8 to 10 miles per gallon on a 40- to 60-gallon tank. Campground fees range from free in some undeveloped forest areas to $50 for commercial RV resorts.
GETTING STARTED: For help planning a vacation in Colorado, contact the Colorado Tourism Office (.com or 800/265-6723). The Go RVing Coalition (.com) is a good source for information on types of RVs, how to rent them, and where to go. Major RV rental agencies allow one-way rentals. National companies include Cruise America (.com or 800/327-7799) and El Monte RV (.com or 888/337-2214). Some local RV dealers also rent vehicles.
2 Car camping on the Oregon coast
My husband Jim's idea of camping is backpacking into the wilds, eating freeze-dried stew, and listening to mountain lions screech. My idea of camping is a Forest Service day-use pass and a chain motel with breakfast buffet. Our sons, ages 13 and 7, thought sleeping bags were mainly for spending the night at a friend's house. It was definitely time for a family camping trip.
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Jim and I decided to compromise with three nights of car camping on a dramatic, boulder-studded stretch of the southern Oregon coast, 7 miles north of the Oregon-California border.
Harris Beach State Park, on . 101 just north of Brookings, is one of the few Oregon campgrounds situated close enough to the ocean to afford the occasional sweeping view of the Pacific. Known for great ranger programs and easy beach access, it has creature comforts such as modern bathrooms, self-service laundry, and newspaper vending boxes as well as a nearby supermarket.
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Sunny start: What can beat sun, sand, and waves? Day one, after setting up camp, we headed down the South Beach Trail to the beach. The kids scrambled over driftwood logs, flung kelp, played commando among sand craters, and cavorted in the thundering surf. I did yoga stretches on the sun-warmed sand. Vacation!
Kid pleasers: Examining oodles of hermit crabs, sea stars, and sea urchins in crystal-clear tidepools below nearby Cape Ferrelo. Running along spines of dunes at sunset. Stepping into a redwood "bear house," a huge, hollow tree trunk. Spotting a bald eagle. Goofing around in the kids' tent. Eating ice cream at the marina, building sandcastles, and roasting marshmallows over crackling logs.
Jim's bliss: A swim in his wetsuit and coastal bird-watching. He spotted ravens, hawks, buzzards, swallows, falcons, even a diving pelican. "It was spectacular, the combination of the air currents, the birds, and the unobstructed view."
I was in heaven: Hiking. I loved the top-of-the-world panorama on the Oregon Coast Trail. We hiked from the Lone Ranch area in the Samuel Boardman State Scenic Corridor--the southernmost leg of the trail that follows segments of the state's 362-mile coastline--to the top of wind-whipped Cape Ferrelo. We also enjoyed the other-worldliness of the River View Trail, which runs along the Chetco River and through the ancient redwood forest near Loeb State Park.
Coming of age: Thirteen-year-old Douglas, an accomplished stone skipper, taught his little brother a winning sidearm technique. The boys skipped stones at every watery spot we found.
If we only knew: Camping at Harris Beach State Park meant sleeping near . 101. We learned that semis rumble down the highway all night. Earplugs were salvation.
An open society: Our camping area was smack in the middle of a revegetation project. Translation: Campsites were separated by plants only inches high. It was life in a bull pen, with every stick of our neighbors' campsites in view. It made for a sense of drapes-open suburbia rather than wilderness, but, as a greenhorn, I was fascinated by the setups of veteran campers.
A few smart moves: I'm glad we tucked homegrown tomatoes in our cooler; they were perfect with the carryout clam chowder we ate at a gorgeous sunset viewpoint as the fog rolled in. One morning, investigating ring-net rentals for crabbing, Jim came across a fish market with bargain fresh catches. Dinner menu set! We wrapped salmon, tuna, and lemon in foil, popped the packets in the fire, and dined deluxe.
Unexpected pleasures: Picking plump, ripe blackberries. Catching sight of Mars--a bright spot the size of a split pea last August--after a barking dog woke us at 3 . Enjoying the friendly vibe of the campground. We borrowed an ax from one family, traded hiking tips with another, and shared maps and firewood. And at 10 . quiet time, the campground did quiet down.
Best of show: Jumping the chilly waves (in summer, the Pacific here ranges from 49[degrees] to 61[degrees]) on the sheltered beach below the campground. The kids laughed with pure joy as they ran in and out of the water, loving it whenever the ocean won and bowled them over. Wet and sandy from nose to toes, 7-year-old Thomas turned his face up to the fading blue sky and bellowed, "This is the best day of my life! God bless America!"
BY JANET FILIPS
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PAUL CARTER
The basics
OUTFIT: We rented two four-person dome tents (kids and their gear in one, adults in the other), sleeping bags, and sleeping pads from REI for $124; borrowed a neighbor's Coleman stove; and packed one flashlight apiece. We cooked in a cast-iron skillet, covered the table with a checkered cloth, and pampered ourselves with French press coffee. Our car is roomy, but not for packing a full-bore campsite. Next time I'll rent a roof carrier and bring a few more handy items, starting with a plastic dishpan, our own ax, and a kite.
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COST: State campground fees vary; summer rates (May 1-Sep 30) are $21 per night, plus a $6 reservation fee. The camp hosts sold cords of wood, posted the daily high- and low-tide schedules, stocked a rack of brochures, and answered questions. Some parks rent cabins, yurts, tepees, even covered wagons.
GETTING STARTED: For information on camping in Oregon's coastal parks, contact Oregon State Parks (.org or 800/551-6949). You can reserve campsites at 26 of the state's 53 parks online or through Reservations Northwest (800/452-5687).
3 Houseboating on California's Shasta Lake
My sister and I wanted to start a vacation tradition. But finding an inexpensive, fun adventure that would appeal to our parents and husbands as well as my 4-year-old son, James, was a challenge. Hotels would be too pricey for our whole group, and camping was out--my father admittedly needs a hot shower and a toilet wherever he goes.
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Houseboating was our compromise and Northern California's Shasta Lake our destination. This lake north of Redding, the state's largest manmade reservoir, promised the peace and quiet we were all after. Although I didn't want to be a spoilsport, I secretly wondered how much of that we'd really find, given that 450 rental houseboats cruise the lake, along with noisy jet skis and countless private boats. Still, we booked a five-day trip, renting a 56-foot boat big enough to sleep all seven of us.
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Quick dip: As we first ventured up the Squaw Creek arm of the lake, the banks grew increasingly steep, and woodsy mountains surrounded us. We found a secluded cove with a posted 5 mph speed limit, tied up to shore, and within five minutes had donned bathing suits and cooled off. My husband, Jim, was the first to try the built-in waterslide, letting out a holler on the way down. Soon my sister and I were fighting with each other to be next. James, however, was perfectly content on the deck, which was roomy enough for his kiddie pool.
Alone at last: The isolation and quiet were complete. With 370 miles of shoreline, the lake had plenty of room for everyone. It really felt like we were camping "without the dirt," as my father put it.
Unexpected visitors: My screams woke everyone on the boat the first night when a large bat flapped up against the screen door to our small cabin, with its foam double beds. My brother-in-law, Mike, was nonplussed: "Why would you get excited over a little bug like that?"
The next day, James spotted several turtles swimming and laughed with astonishment as he watched their heads bob. One crisp morning, we awoke to a flock of 50 Canada geese landing next to our boat. We spent the morning taking photos.
Back to the marina: Our rental was an older boat with a fridge that was small and inefficient. We had to go back to the marina anyway, because the rental company had neglected to empty the sewage holding tank (note to self: check everything before heading out next time), so while we were there, Jim grabbed the coolers we'd brought our food in and filled them with ice.
Puttering along: Part of the fun of a houseboat is that it's slow--you have time to enjoy the scenery. Driving takes patience; quick turns and abrupt stops aren't possible. Plus, on our boat, the engine noise became annoying after awhile. We ended up hunkered down in a few spots we liked and moved infrequently. That left us time to focus on the week's favorite activities: swimming and eating.
Dining alfresco: Evenings on the lake were mellow, with cocktails on the deck while Jim and Mike grilled dinner on the rail-mounted barbecue. We all could have crammed into the small kitchen and dining area had the weather turned, but eating out on the deck was more comfortable--and more fun.
Abandoning ship: While many houseboaters bring ski boats, we brought a couple of kayaks. One day we paddled up a stream to a series of small waterfalls. Gigantic boulders jutted up on each side of several clear, deep pools, jewel toned in shades of topaz, emerald, and sapphire. James pointed to the dozens of brown trout congregated far below under the granite overhangs and said, "Come on, Mommy, let's go swim with the fish."
Casting about: My dad spent hours teaching James how to fish: Cast, reel, cast again. James liked the casting part but couldn't figure out why a fish didn't show up at the end of the line each time. For his part, my dad was wondering the same thing. Maybe they'll catch something next year.
The basics
OUTFIT: Our rental was in the low price range, and it had seen better days. Although it reportedly slept 16, it seemed best for groups of up to 10. Next time we'll splurge on one of the newer (and more expensive) boats we saw out on the lake--one with a hot tub, gourmet kitchen, and satellite TV. Families with small children will want a boat with safety railings. At the minimum, plan on bringing your own sleeping bags and pillows, bath and beach towels, and food; ask about onboard appliances.
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COST: Houseboat rentals on Shasta Lake start at about $1,050 (three-day minimum) and range up to $2,250 for peak summer season (mid-Jun through Labor Day); they cost less in shoulder season.
GETTING STARTED: This summer 7 companies will be renting a variety of houseboats at 10 marinas scattered around Shasta Lake. The Shasta Cascade Wonderland Association (.com/shasta houseboats or 800/474-2782) has detailed information on houseboating and other area recreation. For more on the lake, contact the USDA Forest Service Shasta Lake Visitor Information Center (./r5/shasta trinity or 530/275-1589).
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