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The Kunas have preserved many of their ancient traditions. They still travel by cayuco, or dugout canoe, and the women still dress in brightly colored mola shawls and wear long strands of beads wrapped around their legs and a gold ring through the nose.

As we meandered through a small island village and peered into their spartan homes, we marveled at how they have remained, for the most part, untouched by modern civilization.

While on their island, we witnessed a performance of a troupe of dancers wearing matching costumes, playing flutes and chanting. There are dance competitions amongst Kuna tribes during annual festivals.

In the Darien jungle, on the Pacific side of Panama, we visited an indigenous Embera Indian village, home to about 400 people. They, too, entertained us with music and dancing and encouraged passengers to participate in the fun. Their tribal dance performance mimicked various animal behaviors, including a monkey with an itch and a dog chasing a tapir. All the dancers were young girls and women and their only instrument was a drum.

After the dancing, villagers brought out handicrafts and we were able to select from beautifully carved rosewood pieces, masks, woven baskets and beadwork. A local artist decorated willing passengers with temporary geometric tattoos using ink made from the juice of a fruit.

Exotic sandy beaches

We stopped at a couple of deserted islands that are snorkeling havens. Stephen led several of us on a snorkeling tour as he pointed out and identified sergeant majors, damselfish, guineafowl puffers, nurse sharks and moray eels.

The first island was within the San Blas Archipelago, complete with a white sandy beach and coconut palms. We were able to spend the afternoon there beachcombing, snorkeling and just soaking up the sun. A couple of Kunas came over by canoe to sell their molas.

The other island, actually a cay, was on the Pacific side and part of Coiba National Park. Called Isla Granito de Oro (Little Chunk of Gold), it was definitely a gem. I could have built a thatched hut there and retired, but the only inhabitants allowed to remain on the island are the hermit crabs. At first, the crabs weren't so noticeable, but once I sat down on the sand the beach suddenly began moving and before I knew it I saw them everywhere.

This, too, was a great snorkeling spot. In addition to the fish already mentioned, we spotted turtles. There was such an abundance of fish, I felt as though I were swimming in an aquarium.

Another caution--don't forget the sunscreen. We were negligent and paid the price.

Panama Canal

Day three was spent in anticipation of our canal transit through the Gatun Locks, across Gatun Lake, past Gamboa and into the Gaillard (Culebra) Cut before entering the Pedro Miguel Locks and exiting the Miraflores Locks into the Pacific Ocean.

Our transit wasn't scheduled until 4:30 ., so we remained in the harbor at Portobelo and took a Zodiac tour up the river to explore the mangroves and spot wildlife. With the expert eyes of our naturalists, we found a 2-toed sloth, a boat-billed heron and an osprey, along with myriad other birds.

After lunch we repositioned to Colon, just outside the entrance to the Panama Canal, and waited ... and waited. To gear us up for the journey, a video presentation, "A Man, A Plan, A Canal: Panama," was shown in the Toucan Lounge.

We knew that various officials would be coming and going throughout the afternoon, and one of those boats would be delivering a pilot and a canal commentator who would walk us through every detail of the transit. Being on a small cruise ship (185 feet), the priority level for our transit was way down at the bottom of the list. Our transit time came and went, but we didn't. It was announced that our crossing time would be at 7:30 . and that we would have to pair up with another vessel to make the best use of the 1,000-foot lock space. Our entire transit would be under the cover of darkness.

The time came and our "transit buddy" was out in front. We followed dutifully behind and the gate closed. From the floor of the lock, we watched as gravity-fed water bubbled to the surface and raised the ship 28 feet to the level of the second lock. The gates opened and, with the locomotive "mules" to guide us. we motored under our own power into the second lock. This procedure was repeated two more times until we had risen 85 feet to the level of Gatun Lake. Alter we were unhooked from the locomotives, the last gate opened and we sailed out to the lake. The time was 9 .

Because of our ship's modest size. all the activity that took place in the locks was at eye level or above; we didn't tower high above everything. There was room on all sides of the ship in the lock, and we could easily walk from the bow to the stern and back again to watch this marvel of technology at work.

Now, before you get totally disappointed about the possibility of a nighttime transit, be aware that the locks are completely illuminated. Another plus is that most passengers prefer to remain on the bow during the entire 8-to 9-hour transit, and during the heat of the day the sun and humidity can take its toll. We were treated to a beautiful starlit sky and cool temperatures that were idyllic.

By the time we passed under the Bridge of the Americas and into the calm Pacific Ocean, it was 2:30 . and I was ready for bed.

Other ports of call

While we were in Portobelo, on the Caribbean side, we meandered through cobblestone streets and imagined what it was like back in the days of Sir Frances Drake while we surveyed what was left of the fortifications he built.

Rusty cannons still point out to the harbor, poised to attack encroaching enemy ships. We were told that, at one time. so much gold filled the warehouses of Portobelo waiting to be shipped to Spain that the silver ingots were moved onto the streets--unguarded. It's no wonder that Portobelo was raided again and again by pirates.

Back on the Pacific side, we visited two of the Pearl Islands, or Las Islas Perlas. One island, Pacheca, is a bird preserve that is home to or a migration stopover for literally thousands of birds. On an early morning Zodiac tour around the island, we spotted cormorants, blue-footed boobies, brown-footed boobies, frigate birds, great egrets, flycatchers and brown pelicans. Having Giovanni as our guide made bird identification easy.

That afternoon, Pedro Gonzalez Island lent itself to beachcombing, sunbathing, snorkeling and kayaking.

Sightings at sea

Our most exciting time at sea was when we witnessed one of the greatest spectacles nature has to offer, and it, too, was a benefit of being aboard a small cruise ship.

Having the caliber of naturalists on board that we did, we were encouraged to be on the lookout for marine life, and announcements were made when dolphins or turtles were near the ship. Oftentimes, while in transit, I stood at the bow scanning the horizon and was rewarded with a number of sightings, including alligator fish and flying fish. But the greatest moment was when we spotted a solitary humpback whale.

We were able to follow at a safe distance, and because the whale seemed to be comfortable with our presence we got the show of a lifetime. (Make sure you have a whole roll of film and set your camera to "continuous shoot," otherwise you'll miss that one-and-only Kodak moment.)

The whale would surface, blow and dive, giving us a great view of her flukes. We watched this behavior for quite a while as she circled around us and we around her. And then, as if to say, "Thanks for watching. I gotta go," she heaved her large, robust body completely out of the water and came down with an enormous splash, disappearing into the deep blue. The naturalists agreed that we had witnessed a rare event.

We watched for a bit longer hoping to spot her blows, but she was way off in the distance and the captain announced that we needed to get back on course to our next destination, Costa Rica.

We had two port calls in Costa Rica: Manuel Antonio National Park and Corcovado. These two stops allowed for optional excursions that could be arranged on board and included sport fishing ($670 for the boat), a city tour ($41), horseback riding ($41), a canopy walk ($85 including lunch), scuba diving ($100) and a zip line adventure ($40).

Some activities, such as sport fishing and scuba diving, require a minimum number of participants and, as such, are not guaranteed.

Manuel Antonio National Park

The previous evening, signup sheets had been put out for various hikes (strenuous, moderate or easy), and in the morning the Zodiacs took passengers ashore. Each hike was led by an onboard naturalist. We chose the easy hike, but, on all, closed-toed shoes were recommended. I suggest taking a camelback pack for water (it's a bit easier to carry than a water bottle), but by all means take lots of water. I'd also recommend a bandana to wipe the perspiration from your forehead. Our walk was about two hours and although it wasn't strenuous, it was hot and humid.

Binoculars are handy too, to find the elusive sloth in the trees. Two varieties are found in Manuel Antonio: the 2-toed and 3-toed. We also spotted red-backed squirrel monkeys, mantled howler monkeys and white-faced capuchins. Various butterflies, birds, plants and lizards also were identified by our naturalist along our walk.

Back at the starting point, staff members had set up a water station with ice-cold water and juice, as was the case with every excursion. Zodiacs were standing by to transport passengers back to the ship, where lunch was being served.

Corcovado

There were several nature hikes at Caletas Beach in Corcovado, again difficult to easy, but we opted for an optional thrill ride through the jungle.

After Zodiacs departed with hikers, we boarded, our boat and headed ashore for our zip line adventure. The zip line staff was waiting on the beach, where they fitted us into harnesses and provided us with gloves and helmets. We crammed into a vehicle and drove a short way up the hill to a nondescript dropoff point. We then hiked about 20 minutes into the jungle along a path, over a stream and up a slight hill before reaching a ladder. This hike is not for the feeble footed, nor is this thrill ride for the weak hearted.

We donned our helmets and were hooked up to the safety line as we watched the crew scurry up the 50-foot ladder with ease. Somehow I ended up as the guinea pig, being first in line and first to make the climb. I tried not to look down as I slowly scaled the narrow but secure ladder up the tree and onto the platform. My husband was right behind me, along with the rest of the group and a trailing staff member.

Then it was time to fly.

Alan, one of the staff members, instructed us on the proper zipping and braking techniques and assured us we would be fine. Then he stepped off the platform and disappeared into the jungle. Since I was first in line, I had no choice but to step off in faith and fly ... and fly I did, with the greatest of ease through the jungle canopy all the way to the next platform.

Wow, what a thrill that was! It wasn't over, either; we still had two more zips to complete before we were done, each just as thrilling. By the last zip, I was hanging upside down (almost) and having a great time.

Our dismount from the last platform was almost as thrilling: we had to rappel from the tree. Again, my faith was tested as I had to rely on a rope and my own strength, hoping I would not end up splattered on the ground, although there was someone at the bottom to catch me should I start freefalling out of control. I made it without incident and the rest of our group followed.

The afternoon activities weren't as thrilling but were just as enjoyable. Zodiacs carried passengers up a nearby river in the hopes of spotting more wildlife, and we did: two howler monkeys, a green-back heron, a sloth and a couple of snakes. For the real adventure-seeking crowd, passengers could get to the river under their own power using the kayaks on board.

One of the most memorable moments of the trip happened on this excursion. One couple on board was traveling with their elderly aunt, Agnes, who was, for the most part, wheelchair bound and unable to enjoy any of the excursions away from the boat. JJ asked if Agnes would like to take a Zodiac ride up the river and she agreed.

Enterprising crewmembers secured her wheelchair inside the Zodiac and carefully placed Agnes in the chair. The couple traveling with Agnes, along with JJ, took off on a slow and easy journey up the river, and Agnes was able to experience just a bit of what we all had been privy to. Agnes had a wonderful time and even saw howler monkeys. Kudos to the crew who came up with the idea.

Life aboard ship

For the most part, the days were routine with a sunrise breakfast on the top deck at 5:30 . and a full breakfast served in the dining room beginning at 6. Morning excursions varied, so the time at which we ate breakfast varied as well.

Breakfast consisted of a selection of fruit, bread, cereal and yogurt, or we could order the special or eggs with bacon, sausage and toast.

Lunch was usually served in the dining room, but there were some days, weather permitting, when a buffet-style lunch was served on the sundeck. The lunch menu always varied and consisted of salad or chilled soup, a choice of two entrees or a hamburger with fries and choice of dessert.

For dinner we usually had three selections from which to choose; we would sign up for one after breakfast, but we were free to change our minds. Again, dinners were served in the dining room, and, because the ship was small, there was only one seating at dinner. Passengers were free to choose their dining companions. The dinner menu usually offered soup and salad, an entree of fish, meat (beef or chicken) or pasta and sumptuous desserts.

Dinner was preceded by hors d'oeuvres of local cuisine served on the sundeck along with a recap of the day, highlighting events--some theatrically--and previewing what we could expect the following day.

Occasionally after dinner, naturalists gave lectures in the Toucan Lounge.

Shipboard amenities

John and I had a twin-bedded cabin on the main deck that provided ample room to unpack and stow our bags. There was a closet and several drawers as well as shelf space to keep items readily accessible such as sunscreen, sunglasses and water bottles. The pitcher of water in our cabin was replenished daily, and there were water dispensers located in various spots on the ship so passengers could refill their water bottles--thus producing a minimum amount of waste. There were hooks to hang a hat, jacket and, of course, that nautical not knock knot.

The en suite bathroom was sufficient in size and I didn't feel I was squeezing into a closet.

Free laundry service was offered twice a week with a limit of five items per person. It was a simple wash and dry--no dry cleaning, just clean clothes. Clothes dryers were also available at the stern of each deck for passenger use.

The library in the forward lounge had a wonderful collection of reading materials, both reference books and novels, as well as current magazines and newspapers. With its panoramic ceiling-to-floor windows, it was also a great place to soak in the view.

Several pairs of binoculars were available for use. Snorkel gear was provided for the duration of the trip, and, when conditions permitted, one or 2-seater kayaks could be used at no additional charge. At each beach landing, the crew provided towels and set up water stations and chairs.

An assortment of fresh fruit and snacks, as well as coffee, was always available, located near the water dispensers. A small onboard store had some sundry supplies as well as souvenirs and was open most afternoons.

For convenience, shipboard accounts were opened and our purchases from the store and bar and any optional excursions were added to our accounts. At the end of the cruise a statement was delivered to each cabin; we could settle with either a credit card or cash. Tips were suggested, and they too could be paid by credit card.

Each evening with our turndown service, the following day's itinerary would be placed on our beds with detailed times as well as a brief history of the next destination.

Things to take

Forget the formal wear and jewels, this is comfort and casual all the way. Shorts, tank tops and short-sleeved shirts will get you through the week just fine, plus a light jacket for those cool breezes on the water.

Pack lots of film, a pair of binoculars, a camelback for water, a bandana, a backpack, sturdy walking shoes, beach/water shoes, a hat, sunscreen, aloe vera (in case you get burned), mosquito repellent (although we didn't have a problem) and a watertight bag for your camera while onboard the Zodiac--you never know when a sudden downpour will occur. Most importantly, take a sense of adventure.

Cruise West offers itineraries to several destinations. The "Between Two Seas" itinerary is offered again in November, and prices range from $3,195 to $4,499 per person. Airfare can be arranged through Cruise West as well as pre-and post-cruise extensions. For more information on Cruise West, based in Seattle, visit .com. Reservations must be booked through a travel agent.

Debi Shank was the guest of Cruise West.