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Stone sculptures in the exterior and wooden manifestations of myths and legends adorn the edifices of Bali. Some of the world-renowned chains of five-star hotels that offer a rather standard ambiance and architecture, seem to deviate from this tradition -- here in Bali, the hotels are given a distinct character. The exterior, the interior and even the staff appearance in a flair of Balinese spirit, lives up to the world-class comfort and style. All the buildings in Bali confirm to the law of the land that no structure must rise over and above the tallest tree.
I treasured time spent with my local friends and their joint family at the farm. Later, Ibu (mama) Devi drops me to explore the tourist district of Nusa Dua at the southern tip of the island. Nus Dua is actually a resort peninsula that, some two decades ago, invited the world's top hotels to invest in this paradise island. Most hotels offer luxury accommodations, tantalizing buffet dinner courses combined with Bali dance drama and even western entertainment and cabaret shows. It's worth visiting some of the hotels that stand amidst man-made tropical sanctuaries of tall trees that abound with rivulets and water ponds exhibiting the art of Balinese gardening. Like the local homes, hotel entrances are characterized by Balinese features such as gateways, pools and fountains.
While in Bali, if you do not step into a sensual journey trying one of the health and wellness packages offered around the island, they say you have to return to Bali for this rejuvenating experience. Nusa Dua is expensive, but worth it as a discovery of the modern Bali with copious shopping complexes.
Lovina is my next stop in the north of Bali. From Nusa Dua, accompanied by a local friend, we halt by Taro Village for a traditional Balinese lunch at the Puri Bagus Jati, an Ecolodge that provides the visitor an insight to the traditional life style of Balinese people in a village. Fanning and fishing were the only source of earning bread and butter for the islanders some two decades ago until tourism became the backbone of the island's economy. From here, it's a scenic two-hour journey on the winding, hilly road to Lovina via Bedugul Lake and Git-Git Falls near the Singaraja district. At a small boutique hotel, I soak myself in fresh spring water that fills up the swimming pool. The premise is exquisitely landscaped with a picturesque Balinese garden by the restaurant. A short drive up the hill is the Damai Villas. Its Danish restaurant promises continental cuisine out of the ordinary.
It rains in November and December and for me, photography was not an easy task. Thunder and black clouds followed me everywhere. Nevertheless, I never hesitated to avail those moments of satisfaction when the light and situation was just right for a perfect shot.
On a sunny morning, I journeyed south toward Ubud - Bali's tourist haven. A row of shops and restaurant along the Monkey Forest road offers films and photo labs to souvenir shops, meditation rooms to play theaters, savory cuisine from around the world to a range of accommodations that include "homestays"--five-star luxury and boutique hotels. "Selamat Datang" - the owner of a roadside cafe greets me and invites into the newest seating in Ubud. I feast on Balinese and continental comestibles. The restaurant nearby with a Thai menu has floor seating on a wooden platform in a lush garden.
The Ubud market at the end of the road is the bargain place to buy psychedelic batik for unisex wear, handicraft and stone sculptures. Opposite the market is Ubud Palace - the venue for Balinese folk dances. My room at the hotel has the view of the Monkey Forest. A walk through the forest allowed close encounters with the common Balinese monkey. Interestingly, these monkeys tend to cling together in groups or family. From Ubud, I take a bimo (public taxi) to Batubulan. At the crossroad, I hitch a ride to Barung Bird Park. Quite high priced, the park carries too many small cages. Bali starlings, South American Macaws, Australian Cassowary, African Crowned Cranes, Tanzanian Flamingos and Birds of Paradise are just a few to mention. Nicely landscaped with lily ponds and lush gardens, the park has a variety of some 1,000 birds. The open aviary is the only section of the park where you may photograph some of the many varieties of birds.
During my stay in the rainy season, I occasionally run into sunny days - the time when I go for some action. Driving east of Bali for about an hour and a half, I arrive at Telaga Waja River - perhaps the only river in Bali where white-water rafting is a full action adventure. An overture of rapids and sharp bends allow pure thrill and excitement. The entire stretch is absolutely scenic. Patches of palm forests, rice terraced paddies and lush vegetation along the river highlight three magnificent waterfalls. At the very end of the trip, my raft plunges some 12 feet down a cascade.
At the end of my days in Ubud, I travel to Uluwatu Hill at Gaywayka, enroute Kuta beach town for a breathtaking sunset. Gaywayka is a thematic cultural park affording plenty of traditional Balinese performances, pop, street and Aboriginal music and dance drama and occasional bangs of fireworks behind the colossal statue of Visnu.
I retire early in the morning at one of Bali's best beach districts at the Sanur. In the evening you can browse through art galleries, depicting painstaking craftsmanship and exuberant paintings portraying Bali and its people. You'll find many options when choosing one of the restaurants that queue along the Sanur strip.
I spend my last few days in Bali at Kuta, the busiest tourist district of the island. Exquisite shopping malls of Kuta rivals that of Nusa Dua. Strong dollar value allows you great buying power in Bali. A five-minute drive from Kuta is Legian, famous for its "hippie" character. Nearing my departure, I catch up with one of the most revered of Balinese festivals, the Galugang. The festival marks the freedom of the Balinese people from the dictator King Maya Danawa. A messenger defeats the King and restores freedom to the people to practice their beliefs. Even today, Balinese use the "Wuku" calendar for "spiritual, culture, accounting of temple ceremonies, birthdays, anniversaries and good and bad days for doing just about anything." Although, I enjoyed the cool climate of the rainy season, it is highly recommended to visit Bali from September to November when it's not very warm and wet. Nevertheless, the warmth of Balinese people prevails all year round. A book dedicated to Dewi Saraswati (Bali's goddess of Learning and Arts and Budaya Bali (traditional Spiritual Culture) describes Balinese as "They love to laugh, joke, flirt, work (in) their rice fields, eat every kind of meat and the man drink alcohol, smoke, gamble, and cockfighting is their favorite sport." The spiritual Bali culture is said to have migrated from the Indian subcontinent, though their origin traces back to the early Malay man. While the majority of the people live in the villages, they still uphold their spiritual beliefs.
Prime Festivals: April: Great Purification Ceremony, 12 noon at Paputan Sq., Denpasar. The next day, Nyepi Holiday, the entire island is deserted and drowns into absolute silence. May: Saraswati - Blessing ceremonies given to Holy Scriptures, and literature of science and art - held at every family compound and temples. June: Ceremonies for the bachelors and maidens of the Island. Abwang dance performances in traditional dresses, chanting holy hymns. Mid-June: Bali Art Festival XXI. Procession begins from Puputan Square, Denpasar and marches towards the Art Center. July: Tempekudah - Blessing ceremony held in farms and plantations. July (third week): Kite Festival at Kapten Japa Square, Sanur. Aug: Galungan celebration to mark victory of Virtue over Evil -Intensification -- a week-long festival (also held in the first week of January). Mahu-Mahu rituals to chase away evil spirit from village areas by striking wooden bell, throwing stones -- lasting until night. Sept: Aci-aci Penguriman Desa ceremony (revitalizing the Earth).
Each month there are Temple ceremonies during the Dead-Moon and full moon falling on lunar dates in the Balinese calendar (approximately first week and middle of each month, respectively).
Those traveling to Bali for the first time may be shocked that an island so small has an enormous structure of service industry. The following recommendations may come in handy:
Places to Stay: Bali Hilton and Melia Bali (Nusa Dua), Santrian Hotel (Sanur), Bali Cliff Hotel (Uluwatu), Le-Meridien Nirwana Hotel (Tanah Lot), Champlung Sari Hotel (Ubud), Aneka Hotel: Kuta, The Villas (Legian), Farm Home Stay at Petang Village (E-mail: .)
Theme Parks and Service with a Smile: Bali International Rafting, Bali Bungy Company, Sarni Islands for rental cars and village tours (Tel: 232550), Waterbom Park, Kuta, Gaywayka Theme Park, Bagus Discovery Tours.
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