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Canoeists follow egrets and herons around the bends, while down near Jenner, kayakers spot birds and sea lions. Go with the flow on the Russian River and you'll find that, from beaches to boats, it packs a lot of summer into every curve.
--Lisa Taggart
Colorado: Yampa River
Come July, the Yampa River flows through Steamboat Springs at an amiable pace--perfect for tubers. Hop on the water at the Fifth Street Bridge in Ski Town Lion's Club Park, and float a lazy 11/2 miles to the James Brown Soul Center of the Universe Bridge (no kidding--it was dedicated by the singer). Check water conditions before heading out. Rent tubes at Backdoor Sports ($15 per day; 841 Yampa Ave., Steamboat Springs; 970/879-6249).
--Lora J. Finnegan
Idaho: Boise River (On the cover)
Water flows permitting (check before you go), this is one of the easiest floats in the West. Simply show up at Barber Park (6 miles east of downtown Boise, between Warm Springs and Boise Avenues), rent a tube ($5) or launch your own inflatable, and slip into the river. The 6-mile, two-hour float is mostly tame, but watch for a few small rapids and many overhanging trees. A shuttle bus ($2) runs regularly from the takeout point at Ann Morrison Park back to Barber Park ($4 parking fee; 208/343-1328).
--Julie Fanselow
Utah: Green River
Some of the West's best undiscovered flat-river canoeing, kayaking, and rafting is on the lower 120 miles of the Green. Drift lazily through Labyrinth or Stillwater Canyons, where the river meanders through a red rock wilderness punctuated with 1,500-foot-tall cliffs. There are side canyons for good hiking, sandy beaches for comfy camping. Plan on spending four to six days. Sheri Griffith Expeditions ( 800/332-2439); from $819 for a five-day trip. Green River State Park ( 435/564-3633).
--Gayen Wharton
RELATED ARTICLE: Lazing along the Russian
Russian River Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center. (707) 869-9000.
BEACHES
Forestville: Steelhead Beach Regional Park. Sandy swimming beach. 9000 River Rd.; (707) 565-2041.
Guerneville: Johnson's Beach and Resort. Rentals available. Russian River Blues Festival is held here (Jun 28-29; $45). 16241 First St.; .com or (707) 869-2022.
Monte Rio: Monte Rio Beach. Swimming and boat rentals. At State 116 and Bohemian Hwy.; (707) 865-2487.
OUTFITTERS
Duncans Mills: Russian River Outfitters. From $15 per hour, reservations recommended, (707) 865-9080.
Forestville: Burke's Canoe Trips. From $45 per day reservations required; no nonswimmers. (707) 887-1222.
Forestville: Mr. Canoe's Paddlesports. Classes, guided trips, and rentals.
Call for classes and rental rates. (707) 887-7416.
RIVER FACTS
* Take that, New York: Shoshone Falls, on the Snake River near Twin Falls, Idaho, drops 212 feet--52 feet farther than Niagara Falls.
* Triple play: Montana is the only state with a triple divide, where water flows west to the Pacific Ocean, east to the Atlantic Ocean, and north to Hudson Bay.
* Lay an egg: The Snake River Birds of Prey National Conservation Area is the nation's top nesting site for eagles, hawks, and falcons.
Wild rivers
Oregon: Rogue River
The transformation from ordinary you to river rat takes less than two minutes on the Rogue. That's how long it takes to float from the boat launch to the roaring, spin-cycle center of Grave Creek Rapids (relax--it was a pioneer who was buried, not a rafter). You've made it through your first rapids.
The lower Rogue's 40-mile wild stretch is a pool-drop river: stretches of calm but moving water interspersed with whoop-and-holler whitewater. While most rafters sign up for the thrills, many come to enjoy the Rogue's remoteness, history, and wild beauty. Float around a bend and you might spot a river otter or an osprey diving for a fish. You don't have to rough it--most boaters camp in tents, but a series of wilderness lodges offers the option of a bed, a bath, and a home-cooked dinner with all the trimmings.
--Bonnie Henderson
California: Tuolumne River
Like most Sierra foothill rivers, you can do the "T" in a day--especially early in the season, when it's nonstop whitewater. But this is one of the rare Sierra rivers that can be more leisurely savored in two days and that offers a wilderness camping option. Sometimes you'll sleep within earshot of Clavey Falls, the trip's biggest and scariest rapids. ARTA River Trips (.org or 800/323-2782); from $180 for one day. Toulumne River Trust ( 209/588-8636).
--Abigail Peterson
Colorado/Utah: Green River
As your raft slips down the Green River into the Gates of Lodore, it's readily apparent why Major John Wesley Powell equated the gorge to "a mountain drinking a river." Soaring buff-colored canyon walls tower above your flotilla, while the river bucks with rapids known as Disaster Falls and Hell's Half Mile. Adrenaline-pumping names aside, most of this 44-mile stretch of the river is pretty mellow. Holiday Expeditious 800/ 624-6323); $772 for a four-day trip. Visit .com/raft/ for other outfitters.
--Kurt Repanshek
Idaho: Middle Fork of the Salmon River
A true wilderness adventure in the heart of Idaho, the Middle Fork can be a nearly continuous whitewater run in early June, but then the river mellows; mid- to late-summer runs are best for beginners and families. Some outfitters offer inflatable kayaks. Look for bear and other wildlife along the banks. Four- to six-day trips allow time for hiking, hot springs, fishing, and lazing on sandbars. Echo: The Wilderness Company ( 800/652-3246); from $1,050 for four days. Idaho Travel Council ( 800/714-3246).
Wild Rogue
For a complete list of Rogue outfitters, call (541) 479-3735.
Noah's River Adventures. (800) 858-2811.
Orange Torpedo Trips. (800) 635-2925.
White Water Warehouse. (800) 214-0579.
RIVER FACTS
* Rafting heaven: Idaho has more than 3,000 miles of whitewater river; outfitters run about half of them.
* Long haul: At 678 miles, the Yellowstone River is the longest free-flowing river in the lower 48 states.
* Leave it to Oregon: With 48 protected river sections, it has more designated Wild and Scenic Rivers than any other state.
fishing rivers
Montana: Fly-fishing the Madison River
"Last time I came through here, we pulled a big brown from the edge of that slick water right at the base of the cliff," guide Geoff Unger says as he positions the boat to drift past the pool on the Madison River. With its headwaters in Yellowstone National Park, this classic Western river is one of the most popular fly-fishing waters in a region of streams known for the size and fighting ability of their wild trout. Whether you are a beginning angler or seasoned fly-caster, the best way to explore this river--and catch fish--is in a guided drift boat.
Most day drifts are in the long stretch of river south of Ennis and take six to eight hours. This allows you to cover 10 to 12 miles of river, with the guide continually positioning the boat so both anglers get shots at lunkers holding in spots you just can't reach from the bank.
A good guide will help you learn to read the water and refine technique. While one angler casts toward the cliff, Unger suggests that the other drift a fly past a mossy rock. A rainbow trout grabs the imitation and takes off for the opposite bank. It's the first fish of the day, and linger hasn't even gone around the first bend of the river. Blue Ribbon Flies (305 N. Canyon St., West Yellowstone; .com or 406/646-7642); $325 day rate for two anglers in a guided drift boat with lunch. West Yellowstone Chamber of Commerce ( 406/646-7701).
California: Hot Creek
The spring-fed, nutrient-rich Hot Creek in the Eastern Sierra offers some of the West's finest brown- and rainbow-trout fishing. A catch-and-release stream limited to anglers using barbless hooks and artificial flies, its season runs from late April through November 15. Hot Creek Ranch (.com or 888/695-0774) rents cabins and offers dry fly--only lessons and guide services to guests along a private 2-mile stretch of Hot Creek; cabins from $165 (two-night minimum; reservations essential). Inyo National Forest (./r5/inyo or 760/873-2400) has river information.
Matthew Jaffe
New Mexico: San Juan River
Trophy trout swim almost within grasp on the 4 1/2-mile stretch of the San Juan River below Navajo River Dam, presenting an irresistible challenge to anglers from novice to advanced. Wind-sculpted high-desert sandstone cliffs, mirror-clear and ice-cold water, waterfowl calling, elusive mule deer, graceful willows, and pungent sage make the fishing good here even when the catching is slow. For fishing information and guides, contact Abe's Motel & Fly Shop (1791 State 173, Navajo Dam; .com or 505/632-2194); rooms from $64. Farmington Convention & Visitors Bureau ( 800/448-1240). --Sharon Niederman
Washington: Skagit River
From its source high in the North Cascades to its delta at Puget Sound, the cold Skagit is famous for its runs of big, hard-fighting steelhead trout. Anglers talk about fishing here as if it were a religion. Rasar State Park is excellent for both its fishing and its scenery. A riverside trail flanks the south side of the 168-acre park. A good tackle shop is Sports and More (701 Metcalf St., Sedro-Woolley; 360/855-0648). Rasar State Park ($5 parking fee; . or 360/826-3942). --Steven R. Lorton
Along the rivers
You don't have to get wet to enjoy summer along a river-- just find a comfortable seat along the bank. We list a few of our favorite music festivals, restaurants, and lodges.
Festivals
Portland: Safeway Waterfront Blues Festival, Jul 3--6. The country's second-largest blues festival boogies on the west bank of the Willamette River. This year's headliners include Taj Mahal and Susan Tedeschi. Admission: $5 and two cans of food. Tom McCall Waferfront Park, Naito Pkwy. and Market; (503) 973-3378.
Piercy, CA: Reggae on the River, Aug 1--3. World-class reggae and world-beat musicians converge on a bend in the Eel River along . 101 about 75 miles south of Eureka. $145 for three-day ticket, kids 12 and under free. (707) 923-4583.
Kremmling, CO: Gore Canyon Music & River Festival, Aug 30. Extreme kayak and raft races, riverside volleyball, inner-tube rides, and plenty of live music at Pump House campground on the upper Colorado River. Free. (970) 923-3955.
Napa, CA: Symphony on the River Festival, Aug 31. Paddle or stroll to the Third Street Bridge to listen to classical music performed by the Napa Valley Symphony and watch fireworks. Free. Main St. and Third St.; (707) 254-8520. --B. H.
Dining
Astoria, OR: Baked Alaska. Perched over the Columbia River, Baked Alaska offers expansive water views. Signature dishes include grilled orange-glazed tenderloin medallions and Half Baked Alaska served en flambe. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily 112th St., Ste. 1(503) 325-7414. --B. H.
Sacramento: Rio City Cafe. Cool off on the deck with a fresh strawberry lemonade and watch the River Otters-- little yellow water taxis--on the Sacramento River below. The seafood-and-pasta menu offers plenty of choices. Dinner daily 1110 Front St.; (916) 442-8226. --L. J. F.
Steamboat Springs, CO: Cottonwood Grill. The interior of this pared-down, Zenlike restaurant features Asian artwork; a gorgeous deck overlooks the Yampa River. Try the Cottonwood Peking Duck with a glossy golden glaze and sesame and hoisin sauce. Dinner daily 701 Yampa Ave.; (970) 879-2229.
--Claire Walter
Tahoe City, CA: River Ranch Lodge. Lunchtime at this lodge on the Truckee River is when rafters gather on the patio for barbecue after easy float trips, The main dining room is cantilevered over the river. Lunch, dinner daily; 19 rooms from $110. State 89 at Alpine Meadows Rd.; or (800) 535-9900. --Harriot Manley
Lodging
Fort Jones, CA: Scott River Lodge. With its soaring ceiling and hand-hewn timbers, the main lodge is a kind of log monument to its remote Scott River setting. Among the main lodge, bunkhouse, and two cottages, there are 14 guest rooms. After an elegant dinner (lodge guests only), relax in the spa or lounge on a private deck and listen to the river's song. From $250 per person including meals and activities. (530) 496-3167. --L. J. F.
Near Idleyld Park, OR: Steamboat Inn. High on the North Umpqua River, Steamboat draws anglers and nonanglers alike with its rustic elegance, fine dinner fare, and 31 miles of fly-only fishing just outside the door, Dinners in the restaurant are as legendary as the steel-heading. From $145. .com, (800) 840-8825, or (541) . H
Near Moab, UT: Red Cliffs Adventure Lodge. Brick red sandstone cliffs soar above this year-old Colorado River lodge. After a day on the river or at nearby Arches National Monument, relax on the restaurant's broad deck with a glass of Merlot from the lodge's own Castle Creek Winery. From $169 for rooms with kitchenette.
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