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Cornish Hens with Tamarind Sauce

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes

NOTES: Codornices para picar (loosely, "quail for toothpicks") is a specialty of chef Manuel Brito at Saverio's in Tijuana. We've adapted the recipe to Cornish hens, but you can use 8 quail (about 6 oz. each) instead; bake as directed in step 3 until meat at breastbone is no longer pink, 25 to 30 minutes (15 to 20 minutes in a convection oven). Serve with hot cooked rice sprinkled with fresh cilantro.

MAKES: 4 servings

2 teaspoons sesame seed

4 Cornish hens (12 to 15 oz. each; see notes)

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

1 onion (1/2 lb.), peeled and finely chopped

1 tablespoon minced fresh jalapeno chili

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon olive or salad oil

3 cups dry red wine

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons tamarind paste Cilantro sprigs

Salt

1. In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium heat, stir or shake sesame seed until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Pour from pan.

2. Rinse hens and pat dry. In a small bowl, combine cumin, coriander, and cayenne; rub mixture evenly over surface of the birds. Place the hens breast up in a 10- by 15-inch pan.

3. Bake in a 450[degrees] oven until birds are lightly browned and meat at breastbone is no longer pink (cut to test), about 35 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, in frying pan over high heat, stir onion, jalapeno, and garlic in oil until lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Add wine, sugar, vinegar, and tamarind paste. Boil, stirring often, until reduced to 2 cups, about 12 minutes. Pour through a fine strainer into a glass measure; discard residue.

5. Transfer hens to a rimmed platter and keep warm. Pour wine mixture into baking pan. Set pan over high heat and stir, scraping up browned bits, until sauce is reduced to 3/4 cup, 6 to 8 minutes.

6. Pour sauce over hens and sprinkle with sesame seed. Garnish with cilantro; add salt to taste.

Per serving: 491 cal., 57% (279 cal.) from fat; 37 g protein; 31 g fat ( g sat.); 13 g carbo ( g fiber); 146 mg sodium; 210 mg chol.

Spinach Salad with Mango Dressing and Fried Panela Cheese

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 20 minutes

NOTES: This ensalada de queso panela frita y vinagreta de mango y chile piquin makes a delicious first course at Chef Martin San Roman's Tijuana restaurant, Rincon San Roman. Instead of the panela cheese, you can use part-skim mozzarella cheese; since it melts and spreads more than panela, cook the slices on one side only, then place the hot cheese, browned side up, on salads.

MAKES: 4 servings

1/3 cup canned mango nectar

2 tablespoons lime juice

2 tablespoons olive oil

About 1/4 teaspoon ground dried chilpequin chilies or cayenne

1 quart baby spinach leaves (4 to 5 oz.), rinsed and crisped

1 quart bite-size pieces rinsed, crisped inner romaine lettuce leaves (about 6 oz.)

1/4 cup cilantro sprigs, rinsed

1/4 pound sliced bacon, chopped

Salt

5 to 6 ounces panela cheese (see notes)

1. In a wide bowl, combine mango nectar, lime juice, olive oil, and ground chilies to taste. Add spinach, romaine lettuce, and cilantro sprigs; mix gently. Spoon salad equally onto plates.

2. In an 8- to 10-inch nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat, stir bacon frequently until crisp and browned, about 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer to towels to drain. Discard all but about 1 teaspoon of the bacon drippings in pan.

3. Cut cheese into 1/4-inch-thick slices (about 1 1/2 in. square). Lay without crowding in frying pan over medium-high heat; brown slices lightly on each side, turning once, about 2 minutes total. With a wide spatula, set equal portions of cheese on salads. Sprinkle with bacon; add salt to taste.

Per serving: 247 cal., 80% (198 cal.) from fat; 10 g protein; 22 g fat ( g sat.); 8 g carbo ( g fiber); 416 mg sodium; 20 mg chol.

Chipotle-Cheese Oysters

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 15 minutes

NOTES: Chef Jorge Hernandez at Cien Anos restaurant in Tijuana prepares ostiones chipotle as a lively appetizer. For convenience, have the oysters shucked at the market, keeping the shells and juice. At home, replace oysters in half-shells and strain juice. Or, to shuck oysters at home, grasp the curved end of each with a towel and, working over a fine strainer set in a bowl to catch juices, push the tip of an oyster knife firmly between the top and bottom shell at the hinge, then twist. Slide the blade into the oyster along the underside of the top shell, cutting the adductor muscle to release oyster. Lift off top shell. Holding the bottom shell steady, slide knife under oyster to cut it free; leave in shell.

MAKES: 4 appetizer servings

1 1/2 teaspoons finely chopped drained canned chipotle chili

1 tablespoon sauce from canned chipotle chilies

12 shucked oysters in half-shells (3 to 4 in.; see notes)

2 slices (1 oz. each) asadero or jack cheese

2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro

1. In a small bowl, combine chili, chili sauce, and 1 tablespoon strained oyster juice from shucked oysters.

2. Set oysters in shells upright in a 10- by 15-inch pan. Spoon chili mixture evenly over oysters. Cut or tear cheese into 12 pieces; lay 1 piece on each oyster.

3. Broil 4 to 6 inches from heat until cheese is melted and juices begin to bubble, about 3 minutes.

4. Sprinkle oysters with cilantro. Pick oysters from shells with forks; sip juice from shells.

Per serving: 80 cal., 53% (42 cal.) from fat; g protein; g fat ( g sat.); g carbo ( g fiber); 197 mg sodium; 36 mg chol.

Chili and Tortilla Soup

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes

NOTES: This sopa Azteca, from Cien Anos, can be served as a first course or a light lunch entree.

MAKES: 4 servings

4 flour tortillas (about 8 in.)

Salad oil

1 onion (1/2 lb.), peeled and chopped

1/4 cup ground dried California or New Mexico chilies

6 cups fat-skimmed chicken broth

1 dried pasilla chili (4 to 5 in. long, about 1/4 oz.)

1 firm-ripe avocado (6 to 8 oz.)

1/4 pound queso fresco or cream cheese, cut into 1/2-inch chunks

Seasoned crema (recipe follows)

Salt

Lime wedges

1. Stack tortillas; cut stack in hail then cut halves crosswise into 1/4- to 1/2-inchwide strips.

2. Pour 1/2 inch of oil into a 10- to 12 inch frying pan over high heat. Whet oil is hot, add about 1/3 of the tortilla pieces. Stir often until golden and crisp 1 to 2 minutes. With a slotted spoon transfer strips to towels to drain Repeat to cook remaining tortillas Discard all but 1 teaspoon oil in pan (or reserve for other uses).

3. Pour the 1 teaspoon oil into a 3- to 4 quart pan over high heat. Add onion and stir often until lightly browned, to 5 minutes. Add ground chilies; stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add broth and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer to blend flavors, about 5 minutes. Pour mixture through a fine strainer into a bowl; discard onion and return broth to pan.

4. Remove and discard stem and seeds from pasilla chili; rinse chili and, with scissors, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch strips. Add chili strips to broth mixture. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat; reduce heat to low and keep warm.

5. Meanwhile, peel, pit, and chop avocado. Put avocado, queso fresco, seasoned crema, and lime wedges in separate small bowls.

6. Divide tortilla strips evenly among soup bowls (2-cup size). Fill with chill broth. Add avocado, seasoned crema, juice from lime wedges, and salt to taste.

Per serving: 474 cal., 55% (261 cal.) from fat; 23 g protein; 29 g fat (11 g sat.); 32 g carbo ( g fiber); 504 mg sodium; 33 mg chol.

Seasoned crema. In a small bowl, mix 1/2 cup Mexican crema or sour cream, 1 tablespoon milk, 1 tablespoon minced parsley, teaspoon minced garlic, and about 1/4 teaspoon fresh-ground pepper (to taste). Makes about 1/2 cup.

Garlic and Chili Shrimp

Per tablespoon: 33 cal., 85% (28 cal.) from fat; g protein; g fat ( g sat.); g carbo (0 g fiber); mg sodium; mg chol.

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 25 minutes

NOTES: Camarones al ajillo is popular as a first course at Pedrin's restaurant in the Real del Mar resort in Tijuana. Chef Humberto Dorantes sometimes adds squid to the dish.

MAKES: 4 servings

1/2 pound mushrooms (caps about 1 1/2 in. wide)

1 pound peeled, deveined shrimp with tails (26 to 30 per lb.), rinsed

2 dried guajillo, California, or New Mexico chilies (5 to 6 in. long, about 1/4 OZ. total)

3 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons butter or margarine

2 tablespoons minced garlic

2 tablespoons thinly sliced green onion (including tops)

1. Rinse mushrooms; trim and discard discolored stem ends. Quarter the mushrooms vertically

2. Cut shrimp in half lengthwise from head end to- but not through-the tail (see photo at left).

3. Wipe chilies with a damp cloth. Discard stems and seeds. Cut chilies crosswise into 1/4 inch slices.

4. In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat, stir chilies in oil until chilies smell toasted and oil is tinged with red, 2 to 3 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer chilies to a small bowl.

5. Add butter and mushrooms to pan. Stir often over high heat until mushrooms begin to brown, about 4 minutes. Add garlic; stir until mushrooms are well browned and garlic is lightly browned, about 1 minute longer. Add shrimp and stir just until opaque but still moist-looking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 4 to 5 minutes. If desired, return chilies to pan.

6. Pour shrimp mixture onto a platter. Sprinkle with green onion.

Per serving: 314 cal., 60% (189 cal.) from fat; 25 g protein; 21 g fat ( g sat.); g carbo ( g fiber); 260 mg sodium; 196 mg chol.

Mussels with Tomatillos and Linguisa

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes

NOTES: Chefs at La Embotelladora Vieja in Ensenada cook mejillones a los seis chiles in a hearty broth flavored with six chilies, as the name promises. We've simplified the dish, but it still delivers rich flavor.

MAKES: 4 servings

1 pound tomatillos (about 1 1/2 in. wide)

1 quart fat-skimmed chicken broth

1 cup dry white wine

1 teaspoon ground dried California or New Mexico chilies

1 teaspoon minced canned chipotle chili (including sauce)

1 teaspoon minced fresh serrano chili

1 teaspoon minced garlic

6 dozen mussels (beards pulled off), scrubbed

1/2 pound cooked linguisa (Portuguese) sausage, cut into 1/4-inch slices

2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro

1. Remove and discard tomatillo husks. Rinse tomatillos and quarter vertically

2. In a 6- to 8-quart pan, combine broth, wine, ground chilies, chipotle chili, serrano chili, and garlic. Bring to a boil over high heat.

3. Discard any gaping mussels that don't close when you tap their shells. Add mussels and linguisa to pan; cover and simmer until mussel shells begin to pop open, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in tomatillos, cover, and continue to cook until all mussel shells are open, 2 to 3 minutes longer.

4. With a slotted spoon, transfer mussels to wide bowls. Ladle broth mixture over mussels and sprinkle with cilantro.

Per serving: 440 cal., 45% (198 cal.) from fat; 38 g protein; 22 g fat ( g sat.); 12 g carbo ( g fiber); 1,235 mg sodium; 87 mg chol.

Chilaquiles

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

NOTES: Chilaquiles is a breakfast staple, often served with eggs cooked any style. Up to 1 day ahead, make sauce through step 6; cover airtight and chill. Also up to one day ahead, fry tortillas (step 7); when cool, store airtight at room temperature.

MAKES: 4 servings

12 dried California or New Mexico chilies (5 to 6 in. long, about 2 1/2 oz. total)

2 cups fat-skimmed chicken broth

1 onion (1/2 lb.), peeled

1/2 pound firm-ripe Roma tomatoes

3 cloves garlic

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

12 corn tortillas (6 in.)

Salad oil

6 ounces thin-sliced asadero or jack cheese

1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro Salt

1. Wipe chilies with a damp cloth. Discard stems and seeds. Lay chilies in a 10-by 15-inch baking pan.

2. Bake in a 250[degrees] oven until fragrant, about 3 minutes.

3. In a 3- to 4-quart microwave-safe bowl, combine chilies and broth. Heat in a microwave oven on full power (100%) until boiling, about 3 minutes. Let stand until chilies are soft, 10 to 15 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, cut onion crosswise into 1/2-inch slices. Rinse tomatoes, core, and cut in half lengthwise. Lay onion slices, tomato halves (cut sides up), and unpeeled garlic cloves slightly apart in a 10- by 15-inch pan. Broil 4 to 6 inches from heat until vegetables are browned, 8 to 10 minutes; remove from pan as they are browned. Peel garlic.

5. In a blender, whirl chilies and liquid until smooth (or whirl chilies in a food processor until smooth, then gradually whirl in liquid). Rub mixture through a fine strainer back into bowl; discard chili residue.

6. Return chili puree to blender or food processor; add onion, tomatoes, garlic, cumin, and oregano. Whirl until smooth; return mixture to bowl.

7. Stack tortillas and cut into 1/2-inchwide strips. Pour 1/2 inch of oil into a 10to 12-inch frying pan over high heat. When oil is hot, add about 1/3 of the tortilla strips. Stir often until strips are golden and crisp, about 2 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer strips to towels to drain. Repeat to cook remaining tortillas.

8. Add tortilla strips to sauce in bowl and mix. Scrape mixture into a shallow 2-quart casserole. Cover evenly with cheese.

9. Bake in a 400[degrees] oven until cheese is melted and casserole is hot in the center, 8 to 10 minutes. If desired, broil 4 to 6 inches from heat until cheese is lightly browned, about 4 minutes longer.

10. Sprinkle casserole with cilantro. Spoon portions onto plates and add salt to taste.

Per serving: 581 cal., 56% (324 cal.) from fat; 22 g protein; 36 g fat (10 g sat.); 51 g carbo ( g fiber); 470 mg sodium; 37mg chol.

Banana WaffleS with Cajeta and Tropical Fruit

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes

NOTES: Chef Juan Carlos Lozano offers these waffles in the breakfast buffet at the Pueblo Amigo Hotel in Tijuana. You can substitute regular caramel sauce for the cajeta (goat's milk caramel sauce). If desired, serve waffles as a dessert, adding scoops of vanilla ice cream or sweetened whipped cream.

MAKES: 12 to 16 waffles, 4 inches square; 4 servings

1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour

4 teaspoons sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 large eggs, separated

1 1/4 cups milk

1 cup mashed ripe banana

3 tablespoons melted butter or margarine

Cooking oil spray or salad oil

3/4 cup cajeta (see notes)

2 cups diced (1/2 in.) papaya or pineapple (or a combination)

1. In a bowl, combine flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt.

2. In another bowl, with a mixer at high speed, whip egg whites just until they hold distinct, moist peaks.

3. In a third bowl, beat egg yolks to blend with milk, banana, and butter. Pour egg yolk mixture into flour mixture; beat until smooth. Fold in whipped whites until blended.

4. Heat waffle iron to high. Spray grids (or brush lightly) with oil. Spoon batter onto center of each grid, covering about 2/3 of it. Close iron and bake until waffles are evenly browned, about 5 minutes. As waffles are baked, put in a single layer on an 11-by 17-inch baking sheet and keep warm in a 200[degrees] oven.

5. Transfer waffles to plates and top equally with cajeta and fruit.

Per serving: 625 cal., 23% (144 cal.) from fat; 14 g protein; 16 g fat ( g sat.); 107 g carbo (2 7 g fiber); 836 mg sodium; 145 mg chol.

Coffee-Coco Cooler

PREP TIME: About 5 minutes

NOTES: This rich, creamy batido (milkshake) is served as dessert at Restaurante La Costa de Tijuana.

MAKES: 2 cups; 4 servings

1/2 cup canned coconut milk

1/4 cup canned evaporated milk (or 1/4 cup regular milk and 2 teaspoons sugar)

1/4 cup coffee-flavor liqueur

1 1/2 cups vanilla ice cream

Ground cinnamon

1. In a blender or food processor, combine coconut milk, evaporated milk, liqueur, and ice cream. Whirl until smooth.

2. Pour into glasses and sprinkle with cinnamon to taste.

Per serving: 217 cal., 54% (117 cal.) from fat; g protein; 13 g fat ( g sat.); 19 g carbo (0 g fiber); 60 mg sodium; 26 mg chol.

Carrot-Chili Ice Cream

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 40 minutes, plus 20 to 40 minutes to freeze

NOTES: This interesting ice cream is one of many exotic blends available at Tepoznieves ice cream parlor in Tijuana. If desired, serve on slices of peeled, cored fresh pineapple.

MAKES: About 1 quart

2 1/2 cups refrigerated carrot juice

1/2 cup half-and-half (light cream)

3/4 cup sugar

1 tablespoon ground dried California or New Mexico chilies

2 large eggs

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

1. In a 2- to 3-quart pan over high heat, bring carrot juice to a boil. Remove from heat and add half-and-half, sugar, and ground chilies; stir over high heat until bubbles form at pan edge (scalding, about 180[degrees]), about 1 minute. Remove pan from heat.

2. In a small bowl, beat eggs to blend. Stir about 1/2 cup of the hot carrot juice mixture into eggs. Pour egg mixture into pan and set over medium-low heat. Stir with a flexible spatula, scraping pan sides and bottom for even cooking, until custard coats a metal spoon in a velvety layer, about 10 minutes. Add vanilla.

3. At once, nest pan in ice water and stir often until cold, 10 to 15 minutes.

4. Rub cold custard through a fine strainer into an ice cream maker (1-qt. or larger capacity); discard residue. Freeze as directed until mixture is firm enough to scoop, dasher is hard to turn, or machine stops. Serve, or for firmer ice cream, cover airtight and freeze at least 1 hour or up to 2 weeks.

Per 1/2 cup: 144 cal., 20% (29 cal.) from fat; g protein; g fat ( g sat.); 27 g carbo ( g fiber); 45 mg sodium; 59 mg chol.

IF YOU GO

Tijuana and Ensenada are close enough to San Diego for a day trip, but they are worth a longer sojourn. To find out more, check out .com and .com. For information on using public transportation to cross the border between San Diego and Tijuana, go to .com. If calling the following numbers from the United States, dial 011-526 first.

TIJUANA

Restaurants

* Cien Anos. Jose Maria Velazco 1407, Zona Rio; 634-7262.

* Rincon San Roman Gobernador Ibarra 252, Col. America; 631-2241.

* Saverio's Restaurante Mediterrane. Carlos Robirosa 250, Col. Aviacion; 686-3604.

* Tepoznieves. Blvd. Sanchez Taboada 4002, Local 14-15 Zona Rio; 634-6532.

Other food stops

* . Cetto Winery. Take a tour, sample wines, and visit the gift shop. Ave. Canon Johnson 2108; 685-3031.

* Mercado Pasaje Anahuac. Shop for ingredients and cookware. Calle Segunda 8025.

ENSENADA

Restaurants

* La Embotelladora Vieja. Part of the Bodegas de Santo Tomas winery (Baja's oldest); be sure to check out the adjacent market area, La Esquina de Bodegas. Ave. Miramar 666, Zona Centro; 178-3557.

* Pueblo Cafe. Have breakfast or a quick snack. Ave. Ruiz 96, Zona Centro; 178-8055.