Tons of Fishing
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Introduced to the lake in 1944. this fish is a landlocked version of the oceangoing sockeye. Lake anglers call it silversides, for its fight as well as its flash. But as these salmon reach about 3 years of age, they are overcome by a call set deep in their genes, and begin to move toward the stream where they hatched.

As they go, their bodies turn from willow leaf-shaped to humpbacked. Hormone changes inflame their skin. Their flesh goes mushy and their stomachs resorb. The males develop strange new teeth along suddenly protuberant lower jaws; some even grow teeth on their tongues. Finally, after days of struggle, little more than moving carcasses, they spawn. Then they die, a feast for gatherings of mink, bears, and plunging bald eagles.

To view this drama, stop by the . Forest Service's Lake Tahoe Visitors Center during the annual Kokanee Salmon Festival, October 3 and 4, for short naturalist-guided walks, or go on your own anytime through the third week in October. Pick up brochures at the center. Then follow the self-guiding Rainbow Trail to the Stream Profile Chamber, a windowed underground room with a view of the kokanee. Leaving the chamber, follow a gravel path (not the Rainbow Trail) to the bridge to watch pairs of salmon select egg-laying sites and spawn.

To reach the center from South Lake Tahoe, take . 50 southwest 2 miles, then take State 89 west 3 miles.

MAKING A WEEKEND OF IT

This is a mellow time to be in south Tahoe: off-season, uncrowded, and peaceful. The warm days and cool nights keep sugars in the willow and aspen leaves, lending a golden glow to the surroundings.

Tallac Historic Site, a cluster of summer estates from early in the century, is adjacent to the visitor center and has 3/4 mile of beach for swimming and picnicking. The grand old properties--among them a museum and an events center--are definitely worth a look.

For lodging help, call (800) 288-2463. Of the many good choices, we especially liked old-timey Richardson's Resort, where we had a comfortable lakefront unit within easy walking distance of both Tallac and Taylor Creek, for less than $100; call (916) 541-1801. The resort has boat and bike rentals, a sandy beach, and a dock. Through October, it offers a beginners-welcome kokanee kayak tour; call (916) 544-2011.