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36 hours: Missoula
Two hundred years ago, Lewis and Clark made camp beneath cottonwoods near what would become one of Montana's most vibrant communities: Missoula. They called the camp Travelers' Rest, a name that seems odd given that you'll find few Missoulians actually resting once July begins.
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Dress it up, dress it down--trout is equally at home on Limoges china or in a frying pan over a campfire. Its delicate but distinctive flavor adapts to many settings and presentations.
Smoked Trout
PREP AND COOK TIME: About 25 minutes, plus at least 1 hour to cure
NOTES: For the most intense smoky flavor and deepest gold color, use a charcoal barbecue. To present smoked trout as an appetizer, serve on thin triangles of West-phalian-style pumpernickel bread with sour cream, chopped red onion, and lemon wedges. For a salad, combine chunks of smoked trout, hot or cold, with green salad mix and a vinaigrette dressing. As a main dish, serve trout hot with boiled small thin-skinned potatoes, melted butter, and lemon wedges. Chill smoked trout airtight up to 1 week or freeze up to 1 month.
MAKES: 3 main-dish or 9 appetizer servings
3 cleaned, boned whole trout, heads and tails removed (8 to 10 oz. each)
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons salt
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or dried thyme
2 cups hickory wood chips
1. Rinse trout and pat dry. In a small bowl, mix sugar, salt, lemon peel, and thyme; rub evenly over flesh sides of fish. Stack trout in a 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Cover and chill to cure at least 1 hour or up to 3 hours.
About 1 tablespoon salad oil
2. In a bowl, soak wood chips in 2 quarts of water for 30 minutes. Drain.
3. If using a charcoal grill, ignite 60 charcoal briquets on firegrate. When dotted with gray ash, in 20 to 25 minutes, push half the coals to each side of grate. Sprinkle half the wet wood chips on each mound of coals. Position grill about 6 inches above grate.
If using a gas grill, turn heat to high. Put wet wood chips in smoke box or foil pan directly on heat. Close lid and heat for about 10 minutes. Adjust heat for indirect grilling (no heat down the center).
4. Rinse fish well and pat dry. Coat skin sides of fish with oil and lay fish, skin down, on grill, not over heat source. Cover barbecue; open vents for charcoal. Cook until fish are opaque but still moist-looking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 8 to 10 minutes. With a wide spatula, transfer fish to a platter.
Per main-dish serving: 384 cal., 47% (180 cal.) from fat; 47 g protein; 20 g fat ( g sat.); g carbo (0 g fiber); 699 mg sodium; 132 mg chol.
Grilled Trout and Potatoes with Tomatillo Sauce
PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes
MAKES: 4 servings
12 red thin-skinned potatoes (2 in. each)
4 cleaned, whole bone-in trout (12 to 16 oz. each)
3 tablespoons olive or salad oil Salt
1/2 pound tomatillos
2 fresh jalapeno chilies (1 1/2 OZ. total), rinsed
1. Scrub potatoes. In a 3- to 4-quart pan over high heat, bring about 1 quart water to a boil. Add potatoes and return to a boil; reduce heat, cover, and simmer until tender when pierced, 20 to 25 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, rinse trout, pat dry, and coat with about half the oil. Sprinkle fish cavities lightly with salt.
3. Husk and rinse tomatillos. Thread tomatillos onto a metal skewer (8 to 10 in.).
4. Drain potatoes. Goat with remaining oil and thread equally onto 4 metal skewers.
5. Lay potatoes, tomatillos, and chilies on a grill over a solid bed of hot coals or high heat on a gas grill (you can hold your hand at grill level only 2 to 3 seconds). Close lid; open vents for char coal. Cook 5 minutes; turn vegetables over and lay trout on grill. Cook, tuing as needed, until potatoes are lightly browned and tomatillos and chilies are well browned, 6 to 8 minutes longer Cook fish, turning once, until opaque but still moist-looking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 6 to 8 minutes total. With a wide spatula, transfer potatoes and fish to a platter and keep warm
6. Cut off chili stems and discard. For less heat, discard seeds. In a food processor or blender, combine tomatillos, 1 chili, and 1/4 cup water. Whirl until smooth. Add more chili, if desired, and salt to taste; whirl until smooth. If a thinner sauce is desired, add a little more water. Pour into a bowl.
7. Serve trout and potatoes with tomatillo sauce; add salt to taste.
Per serving: 540 cal., 40% (216 cal.) from fat; 46 g protein; 24 g fat ( g sat.); 34 g carbo (3 g fiber); 118mg sodium; 116 mg chol.
Trout with Sage
PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes
NOTES: If desired, buy trout without heads and tails (10 to 12 oz. each).
MAKES: 2 servings
1 lemon (4 to 5 oz.), rinsed
2 cleaned, bone-in whole trout (12 to 16 oz. each) Salt and pepper.
18 fresh sage leaves (each 2 to 3 in long), rinsed and dried
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 1/2 tablespoons cornmeal
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons butter (or more olive oil)
1. Cut lemon in half lengthwise. From 1 half, cut 4 thin slices crosswise; 1 save rest of half for other uses. Cut remaining half into wedges.
2. Rinse fish, pat dry, and sprinkle lightly, inside and out, with salt and pepper. Tuck 3 sage leaves and 2 lemon slices into the cavity of each fish
3. On a sheet of waxed paper, mix flour and cornmeal. Roll fish in mixture to coat; shake off excess and discard remainder.
4. Set a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat. When pan is hot add oil and tilt pan to coat. Add trout and brown on each side, turning once, until fish are opaque but still moist looking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 12 to 14 minutes total reduce heat to medium if fish brown too quickly.
5. With a slotted spatula, transfer fish to plates or a platter. Add butter and remaining sage leaves to pan; shake pan often until butter is melted and sage leaves are darkened and slightly browned, about 1 minute. Spoon butter and leaves over fish. Squeeze lemon wedges over fish and add salt and pep per to taste.
Per serving: 587 cal., 60% (351 cal.) from fat; 44 g protein; 39 g fat (11 g sat.); 15 g carbo ( g fiber); 222 mg sodium; 147mg chol.
Baked Trout with Lemon-Parsley Butter
PREP AND COOK TIME: About 20 minutes
MAKES: 4 servings
1/3 cup butter or margarine
4 cleaned, boned whole trout, heads and tails removed (8 to 10 oz. each)
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 tablespoon chopped drained capers
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 clove garlic, peeled and pressed Salt and pepper Lemon wedges
butter in a small microwavesafe bowl and heat in a microwave oven at full power (100%) until melted, 30 to 60 seconds.
2. Rinse fish, pat dry, and, if fillets are attached, cut apart. Coat fish on all sides with about 1 tablespoon butter total and lay skin side down in a single layer in 2 pans, each 10 by 15 inches.
3. Bake in a 400[degrees] oven until fish are opaque but still moist-looking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 8 to 10 minutes, switching pan positions after 4 minutes. With a wide spatula, transfer fish to plates.
4. To remaining butter, add parsley, capers, lemon peel, lemon juice, and garlic. Heat in microwave oven at full power until bubbling, about 30 seconds.
5. Drizzle fish with butter mixture. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve with lemon wedges to squeeze over fish.
Per serving: 475 cal., 57% (270 cal.) from fat; 47 g protein; 30 g fat (12 g sat.); g carbo ( g fiber); 370 mg sodium; 173 mg chol.
Oven-Steamed Trout with Ginger
NOTES: If they're available, choose fish with fillets attached at the back.
PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes
MAKES: 4 servings
About 1 tablespoon Asian 00(toasted) sesame oil
4 cleaned, boned whole trout, heads and tails removed (8 to 10 oz. each)
1/4 cup dry sherry
3 tablespoons finely slivered fresh ginger
About 2 tablespoons soy sauce
1/3 cup finely slivered green onions (including green tops)
1/3 cup fresh cilantro leaves
1. Rinse trout, pat dry, and coat inside and out with oil. Lay fish, spread open, skin side down, in a single layer in 2 baking pans, each 10 by 15 inches. Drizzle sherry evenly over fish and sprinkle with ginger. Cover pan tightly
2. Bake in a 400[degrees] oven until fish are opaque but still moist-looking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 8 to 10 minutes. Supporting with 2 wide spatulas, transfer fish to a platter or plates (if fish start to break up, cut fillets apart and lift 1 piece at a time).
3. Drizzle 2 tablespoons soy sauce evenly over fish; sprinkle equally with onions and cilantro. Add more soy to taste.
Per serving: 395 cal., 41% (162 cal.) from fat; 48 g protein; 18 g fat ( g sat.); carbo ( g fiber); 636 mg sodium; 132 mg chol.
Trout with Tarragon and Leeks
PREP AND COOK TIME; About 40 minutes
MAKES: 4 servings
1 1/2 pounds leeks
3 tablespoons butter or margarine
1/3 cup pine nuts
1 teaspoon fresh tarragon leaves or 1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar Salt and pepper
4 cleaned, boned whole trout, heads and tails removed (8 to 10 oz. each)
Lemon wedges
1. Trim and discard root ends, tough green tops, and tough outer leaves from leeks. Split leeks in half lengthwise and rinse well under running water; thinly slice crosswise.
2. In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan, melt butter over medium heat. Add nuts and stir until golden, about 3 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer nuts to a small bowl. Spoon 1 tablespoon butter into another small bowl. Add leeks and tarragon to remaining butter in pan. Stir often until leeks are limp, 7 to 10 minutes. Stir in vinegar, pine nuts, and salt and pepper to taste.
3. Rinse fish, pat dry, and rub skin sides with reserved butter. Open fish, flesh sides up, and spoon an equal amount of leek mixture down the center of each trout. Fold sides together to enclose filling. Place trout slightly apart in a 10- by 15-inch pan.
4. Bake in a 4000 oven until fish are opaque but still moist-looking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 10 to 13 minutes. With a wide spatula, transfer trout to plates or a large platter. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve with lemon wedges to squeeze over the fish.
Per serving: 520 cal., 52% (270 cal.) from fat; 51 g protein; 308 fat ( sat.); 12 g carbo ( g fiber); 221 mg sodium; 155 mg chol.
Cornhusk Trout
PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/4 hours
NOTES: The charred cornhusks give the trout a distinctive mild, smoky flavor. You can find the cornhusks at well-stocked supermarkets and Latino markets. Wrap the fish (through step 3) up to 2 hours before cooking; cover and chill.
MAKES: 4 servings
4 to 51/2 dozen dried cornhusks (6 to 8 in. long, 4 to 6 in. wide)
4 cleaned, bone-in whole trout (12 to 16 oz. each)
About 1 teaspoon salt
Hominy-pepper salsa salad (recipe follows)
1. Remove and discard any silks from cornhusks. Rinse husks, place in a large bowl, cover with very hot tap water, and soak until soft and pliable, about 15 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, rinse the fish and pat dry. If desired, cut off heads and tails. Sprinkle trout inside and out with salt.
3. Tear 3 or 4 of the thicker husks lengthwise into 1/2-inch-wide strips; tie ends together to make 20 to 24 strips, each 10 to 12 inches long. (Or use 20 to 24 pieces of cotton string, 10 to 12 inches long, soaked in cold water.) For each fish, lay 4 or 5 husk strips or strings parallel 2 1/2 to 3 inches apart. Drain the remaining husks; unfold them and lay them flat on and perpendicular to the strips, overlapping, to make 1 rectangle for each trout, 2 to 3 inches wider and longer than the fish. Cover each rectangle with another layer of husks. Lay 1 fish down the center of each rectangle. Cover fish with 2 layers of husks just the size of the fish, overlapping the edges if needed. Fold bottom rectangles up and over sides of fish and top rectangles to enclose completely. Secure bundles by tying husk strips or string snugly around fish, with 1 at each end cinched tight to close. Lay fish bundles slightly apart in 2 pans, 10 by 15 inches each.
4. Bake in a 500[degrees] oven until husks are charred, 30 to 40 minutes. Set a fish on each plate. Snip husk strips, fold back husks, peel off fish skin, and serve trout with hominy-pepper salsa salad and salt to taste.
Per serving: 297 cal., 39% (117 cal.) from fat; 428 protein; 138 fat ( sat.); 0 g carbo (0g fiber); 687 mg sodium; mg chol.
Hominy-Pepper Salsa Salad
PREP TIME: About 20 minutes
MAKES: About 3 cups; 4 servings
Drain 1 can (14'/2 oz.) golden hominy; rinse and drain again. In a bowl, mix hominy, 1 cup chopped red bell pepper, 1/3 cup chopped red onion, 2 tablespoons lime juice, and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro. Add 1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh jalapeno chili and salt to taste.
Per serving: 89 cal., 10% (9 cal.) from fat; 2g protein; 1 g fat ( g sat.); 18 g carbo ( g fiber); 219 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.
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