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Sea kayaking provides a great way to observe some of the most glorious reaches of the Florida Keys. And winter, barring the occasional too-windy day, is a good time for such outings. The population of migrating birds rises, the number of people sharing the backcountry drops, and the tropical climate offers welcome relief from whatever icy conditions might be occurring back home.
Outfitters all along the Keys provide the gear and guidance needed to explore the watery wilds. Destinations include John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, Key Largo National Marine Sanctuary, Key West National Wildlife Refuge, and Great White Heron National Wildlife Refuge.
Many kayak guides set out directly from marinas, docks, or boat ramps for instant entry to the sea-level realm. Tom and Elizabeth Blount, of Adventure Charters & Tours in Key West, take a refreshingly different approach to their full-day outings. They load small groups of 6 to 14 guests, plus gear and supplies, onto the Island Fanta Sea-their 42-foot, high-speed catamaran-and motor deep into the Great White Heron Refuge on the Gulf side. That initial hour's commute delivers paddlers miles into nature.
Off-loading in the Mud Keys region, the kayakers leave the mother ship behind and explore shallow flats ranging from a few inches to a few feet deep between sheltering islands. Spiny lobsters, stone crabs, barracudas, stingrays, and other creatures dart past below the surface.
Bud likes to stand in his kayak as he poles along, demonstrating its stability and using the higher vantage to spot wildlife. He snags up a horseshoe crab, exposing its leggy underbelly, and levers a glistening orange sea star onto his paddle for closer inspection. He leads the way through narrow passages and across open expanses between tiny islands. And when he spots another suitable sandbar, he beaches his kayak, yanks open ice chests full of soft drinks, and declares "The 'bar' is open."
For two hours the kayakers paddle and drift downwind. Rounding a bend, they find the Island Fanta Sea waiting at anchor. Captain Tom secretly has leapfrogged them, sparing all a return struggle against the breeze. He has hamburgers grilling, shrimp boiling, and melons sliced for an onboard feast.
Next, the catamaran motors into the Snipe Keys for snorkeling, beachcombing, and more kayaking. A few guests bait hooks and haul in mangrove snapper, black grouper, blue runners, and other game fish at a rate of nearly one catch per cast. Others simply relax on deck.
On the return voyage, Bud and Captain Tom point out breaching dolphins, flocks of waterbirds diving for fish, and cloud formations foretelling weather conditions. Someone mentions that during the entire day trip he saw only three other boats. Bud smiles and concludes, "Mission accomplished."
Adventure Charters & Tours: 6810 Front Street, Key West, FL 33040; (305) 2960362, toll free 1-888-817-0841, or www. . Prices: Full-day adventures (9:30 .-5:30 .) cost $100 per person, including equipment for kayaking, snorkeling, and fishing, plus an all-youcan-eat lunch. Half-day trips (closer-to-port 21/2- or 31/2-hour excursions leaving at 9 . and 2 .) cost $30-$35. Location: Trips depart from Safe Harbor Marina on Stock Island near Mile Marker 5 on . 1. 0
TRAVEL TIPS
What to wear: A swimsuit or lightweight sport shorts that dry quickly, sandals suitable for walking in water, a Tshirt, a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, and sunblock (use it or burn). Be flexible: Schedule your kayak trip for early in your visit so that if stiff winds postpone your outing, you'll still be around to try again in a day or two. Go with a pro: Steer clear of cut-rate operations that rent gear, point the way, smile, and wave. There's plenty of room to get lost out there, and one mangrove island looks like another to a novice. Pay more to join a professional. Other outfitters: Each service has its own personality and way of doing things. Besides Adventure Charters, consider Florida Bay Outfitters, Key Largo, (305) 451-3018; Ocean Paddler South, Marathon Key, (305) 743-0131; and Reflections Kayak Nature Tours, Big Pine Key, (305) 872-2896.
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